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Today we chat with Chris Hillyer, Director of Innovation at Deckers Brands, a group comprising a set of fashion brands. He explains how 3D can accelerate workflows and creativity in the footwear and apparel industries.

Then, Vladimir Petkovic, 3D Artist from the Adobe Dimension team, will give us a concrete example of a 3D shoe model from Hoka (Deckers), going into details with tools such as Project Substance Alchemist, Substance Painter, Adobe Dimension and Project Aero.

Introduction

Chris: Bonjour! My name is Chris Hillyer and I’m working in the footwear and apparel industry to implement a digital product creation workflow. I have an Industrial Design background and feel the timing is right to introduce efficiencies from the way designers work in other industries into ours. I’m most interested in developing a pipeline where designers shift to creating in 3D for better visualization, communication and data efficiency.

My Role at Deckers

Currently, I’m leading a small team which has become fluent in 3D design and development. We’re in the process of introducing our pipeline to the inline designers and development staff at Deckers. I’m also involved in advocacy work within the industry to promote and demystify the 3D process. Additionally, I’m helping to develop a web-based material library called Material Exchange which allows for material suppliers and brands to connect and find digital materials which can be downloaded and visualized on 3D footwear and apparel models.

3D in the Footwear and Apparel industry

We have so much work still to do but we have made tremendous progress. To start with, the current process is laughable. It’s the same today as it was when I started in the industry nearly 20 years ago. Designers create Adobe Illustrator pictures of shoes and apparel as well as delivering a list of materials and colors. Proportions are wildly unrealistic and factories are burdened with interpreting the design into a physical sample. The process is lengthy and, more often than not, the initial samples are not satisfactory. Additionally, our development teams are burdened with the arduous task of manually entering construction and material data into our PLM system to generate the Bill of Materials.

Our digital pipeline allows for the design to be generated in 3D as a photo-real representation of the concept. All of the material data and consumption automatically populates the Bill of Materials, and can even begin calculating the cost of the product. Finished BOMs can then push into our PLM platform. As we all know, this is when 3D really starts paying off as we can begin playing with color, swapping out materials, and tweaking design lines, logos and details. Once we have something we like, we can pop it up on Instagram to get feedback from consumers and supplement traditional photography as well as create animations and assets used by our sales and marketing teams.

Project Substance Alchemist

We’ve been waiting for a solution like Project Substance Alchemist for a long time. The digitalization of materials is very new to the industry and we simply don’t have systems in place to allow for the scanning of the volume of materials necessary.

Today, companies which have started their 3D journey have taken on the responsibility of scanning materials internally. The next evolution will be the material suppliers themselves generating the digital twin of their materials. With tools like Project Substance Alchemist and Material Exchange, suppliers will have the resources they need to begin their digital revolution.

The 3D Shoe Project

Our industry is currently sitting in a vortex between 2D and 3D. Even today, nearly every new shoe or garment is designed using Adobe Illustrator. What we love about Adobe Dimension is the opportunity for creative professionals working on packaging, event design, displays and product to leverage the 2D assets they are currently using and quickly move into a 3D environment. This familiarity allows for quicker adoption, less frustration and in the end, better results.

3D Design Workflow

Vlad: I am Vladimir Petkovic, a creative director, working on Adobe Dimension. I have been a professional 3D artist for about 15 years. I am specialized in various areas of 3D graphics: hard surface and organic modeling, texturing, rendering, lighting, environment design, etc.

This breakdown covers the visualization of one of the HOKA shoes, manufactured by Deckers, using the apps from the Adobe and Substance ecosystems. The goal of this use case was to show the versatility, simplicity, and efficiency gained by using these tools.

We will cover the following apps:

  • Any application capable of UV unwrapping
  • Adobe Photoshop
  • Project Substance Alchemist
  • Substance Painter
  • Adobe Dimension
  • Adobe Illustrator
  • Project Aero

The End Result

Chris: We have been moving towards building product in 3D for years but the biggest challenge has been adoption from our design teams. With Adobe Dimension and Substance, we can take existing designs and visualize dozens of variations of color, material as well as graphics applications in photo-realistic quality. As anyone who is familiar with the power of 3D, this has become extremely important to our product creation process.